The words handmade, artisanal, handcrafted may be all the rage now but many will tell you that some of their most prized possessions and precious heirlooms handed down over generations have been all of this. Our local artisans or kaarigars have been upholding indigenous crafts and using sustainable methods to craft their pieces for years now. Whether jewellery, handlooms, artifacts, or pottery — artisanal creations are handmade, authentic, slow-produced, one-of-a-kind, and priceless, which, when you think about it, are all attributes of true luxury.
Recently, the UN’s World Tourism Organisation has identified Bhoodan Pochampally as one of the World’s Best Tourism Villages. Rich in cultural heritage, this village in Telangana is home to diverse handloom weavers and artisans; from Pochampalli sarees to lesser-known art forms like Telia Rumaal and double Ikat Pochampally Patola — you can visit this village, explore their designs, and shop directly from the weavers. With global recognition and Indian celebrities like Sonam Kapoor and Samantha Ruth Prabhu taking to promoting Indian handlooms and textiles, these find favour with the younger fashion enthusiasts also now.
Despite all this, did you know the number of Indian artisans has reduced by 30 percent in the last 30 years? Apart from losing their work to fast fashion sweatshops that value quantity over quality, Indian artisans often fall prey to mediators and brands that clone these crafts through digital art or replicas. The COVID-19 pandemic has hit the demand with very few looms and design stores remaining operational. The pandemic has forced several artisans out of work, and some are unable to sell their accumulated stock. Harvard University reports that our country has been losing about 10 percent of artisans every year owing to the financial situation.
While the threats to the livelihood of artisans and craftspersons is a complex issue that requires interventions at multiple levels, consumers can play an important role in mitigating this by shopping from them and patronizing their craft. It is, to use a cliché, a ‘win-win’ – rewarding for both, the artisan who is empowered and the buyer who gets to own a piece of heritage!
Why Shop from Artisans
“The handloom weaving is in a dying condition. Everyone admits that whatever may be the future of the mill industry, the handlooms ought not to be allowed to perish.”
― Mahatma Gandhi
Mahatma Gandhi was a staunch supporter of handlooms and khadi; he didn’t just spin the yarn but encouraged Indian farmers to take up weaving khadi during the non-farming seasons. His above quote makes us wonder: despite his faith in Indian handlooms, did he have the premonition that weavers might face this predicament in the future? India has been known for its arts, crafts, textiles, and weaves for centuries. From Pochampally Ikats and Ajrakh prints of Kutch to Madhya Pradesh’s Gond art and Dhokra handicrafts from Chattisgarh, from Lucknow’s Chikankari embroidery to Rajasthan’s Bandhini and Batik arts of dyeing, Indian craft styles are richly diverse, beautiful, and painstakingly intricate. When you own a Sambalpuri saree or Cheriyal painting — you know these pieces carry a legacy and are a part of a long tradition of skills handed down from one generation to the next. They’ve survived for years and may survive some more years, but, with the right kind of enabling environment, they can thrive.
Several state governments are working to support and revive their states’ crafts and textiles. The Telangana Government has been striving to revive old handlooms like Ikats and Gollabhama sarees through welfare schemes for weavers and workers.
Apart from the state governments, several homegrown labels are working closely with artisans to offer consumers a slice of their heritage. Whether you choose stunning jewellery to accessorize your outfit with or décor that gives your home a Bohemian chic aesthetic or an entire ensemble in exquisite weaves, you can take home handcrafted pieces that make a statement of timeless luxury.
Unlike mass-produced brands, niche, homegrown labels collaborate with artisans to create unique and thoughtfully crafted pieces, that marry traditional skills with modern sensibilities and contemporary design, that blend in with urban lifestyles.
Unlike mass-produced brands, niche, homegrown labels collaborate with artisans to create unique and thoughtfully crafted pieces, that marry traditional skills with modern sensibilities and contemporary design, that blend in with urban lifestyles.
How Brands are Supporting Indian Artisans
The recent Sabyasachi and H&M collaboration caught the interest of celebrities, influencers, and fashion enthusiasts and got its share of bouquets and brickbats. While the collaboration may have been right to claim that it was raising awareness of Indian art forms like Kalamkari and Sanganeri on a global platform, all the products are fast-produced and digitally printed at H&M’s workshops. The lack of transparency about whether the Sanganeri and Kalamkari artisans were paid or not is also a matter of concern. Creating exact replicas of handicrafts is of no value — especially because no piece is similar when artisans handcraft them, and producing them in a factory takes away their significance. But that doesn’t make such collaborations necessarily evil. Brands like Okhai, P-Tal, India Craft House, Rare Planet, and several small businesses work with Indian artisans. By paying them fairly and allowing production in slow-batches — these brands genuinely respect the artisans, and the intent to improve their livelihood is baked into their business models.
Source: India Craft House
The India Craft House is a social enterprise that aims to raise the dignity of the Indian artisan. This online platform has been curating handlooms and crafts from various Indian states for over 10 years now; they also work with Indian NGOs, self-help communities, and enterprises to eliminate middlemen and ensure the artisans receive their fair due. Bare Necessities ethically sources raw materials for its products from farmers and local vendors; this brand also stresses women’s employment and zero wastage.
Another Indian brand, Doodlage, upcycles industrial waste and has a team of artisans they work with. Okhai, a part of Tata Chemicals Society for Rural Development, works with women artisans and entrepreneurs from underprivileged sections of our country to provide apparel and lifestyle goods. As a brand that has been closely working with diverse rural communities, it intends to empower over 5,000 rural artisans in the next five years. What we like about Okhai is that you can shop based on the art forms — Ajrakh, Handblock Print, or Jamdani. Besides, they curate diverse artisanal Indian labels like Madhubani Paints, Trove Craft, Looms by Ladakh, Potli, Handweave India, and more.
Source: Mandala Pottery
Got a thing for ceramics? Visit your local pottery or ceramic artists instead of shopping from brands that mass produce in factories. You can check out brands like Indus People, Mrid Cera, Minimal India to shop online. Pondicherry-based Mandala Pottery also happens to be our favourite. The team at Mandala has skilled potters and glaze artists handcrafting gorgeous ceramics. Every piece is unique, and their products are made-to-order. What’s not to love? You can head over to their website to peruse the catalogue and order.
Then there is jewellery that is handcrafted using silver, brass, and wood — labels such as Dhora, Zariin, Madiha Jaipur work with Indian artisans from Jaipur to create dramatic pieces that are conversation starters.
Another favourite is the Pattachitra Paintings of Odisha, who source paintings, on paper, cotton, and tusser fabrics, directly from artisans eliminating any middlemen, and ship to customers. This effort, which came into being during the pandemic to provide livelihood support to artisans, has built quite a fan following on Twitter.
When we shop from brands that collaborate with artisans, we create more opportunities for artisans and help revive dying art forms. Artisanal pieces are classics — there is a reason grandmas pass on their handloom sarees to the next generations. When we buy from brands that are helping Indian crafts thrive, we’re also investing in craft traditions that are an intrinsic part of our shared heritage.
