Fashion has always been a form of expression that represents personal style, personality, and preferences. But in recent years, the idea of timeless style and fashion has been upended and turned into a frenzy for consumption, leading to an ecosystem of excessive waste. The over-production of clothing by fast-fashion brands and the under-utilization by consumers who dispose of these too soon have made the fashion industry the second-largest polluter in the world after the oil industry.
But this isn’t what fashion was meant to be! To quote the legendary designer Gianni Versace,
“Don’t be into trends. Don’t make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way to live.”
Enter Sustainable Fabrics
With a better understanding of the massive impact of the fashion industry on the environment, the movement for slow, sustainable, and ethical fashion brands is growing. Even large luxury fashion houses are waking up to threats to the planet and making the shift towards sustainability.
You probably already know of the celebrated #WhoMadeMyClothes movement that champions ethical manufacturing and supply chain, but it is time to take the conversation beyond that. Today, conscious consumers are questioning the methods and materials used to make their clothing. They are asking – ‘WHAT are my clothes made of?’
Synthetic clothing is made in fabrics like polyester and nylon which are the by-products of plastic. Data shows that 60% of clothing produced worldwide is made of these unsustainable materials. These have a shorter shelf life in your closet but a much longer after-life in our landfills and oceans. From the microfibres released during every wash to the disposing of the actual garment, the pollution caused by these materials is a continuous vicious cycle.
Source: Vox
This Plastic-Free July, along with the shift to plastic-free homes and workplaces, there are many reasons to go beyond these and take a long, hard look inside our closets.
Most of us who avoid synthetic fabrics and choose natural and comfortable alternatives rarely look beyond cotton. However, apart from the chemicals and pesticides used in the commercial cotton supply chain, it is also a water-intensive crop. Now there is a growing awareness of organic cotton but not many know of the many alternatives that rank higher on the eco-conscious scale.
So, we’ve put together a list of sustainable alternatives to commercial cotton that are innovative and exciting and don’t compromise on the comfort and style quotients. And some of these are sure to surprise you!
- Organic Hemp
- Organic Linen
- Organic Bamboo
- Cork Fiber
- Tencel (also called Lyocell)
- Pinatex
- Peace Silk (also called Ahimsa Silk)
- Recycled and Organic Cotton
- Econyl
- Recycled Polyester
Honestly, is there anything this versatile plant can’t do? Not only does hemp require much less water than cotton (almost 50% lesser), but it is also carbon negative. That means, it absorbs high amounts of CO2 from the atmosphere and helps keep the air clean. It can also flourish without the use of any chemical intervention, so it does not require the use of pesticides.
Hemp fabric is a soft, plant-based material that is naturally sun protective and has antimicrobial properties. It is also considered an all-weather material, so clothing made from this fibre can be worn all year round! How’s that for saving, right?! Your capsule wardrobe could do with clothes like that!
If you still need more convincing and want to dig a bit deeper, check out our detailed piece here!
Several local brands offer hemp-based collections now. We love the clothing and accessories from B Label By Boheco who were the first in India to create and sell organic Hemp clothing and have a wide range of shirts, dresses, and more. You can also explore brands like Ecentric and Amala Earth and step into the world of Hemp fashion!
Source: BLabel
Another natural wonder that we love is organic linen. A great addition to your wardrobe, especially if you live in a humid climate, linen clothing is both airy and long-lasting. Organic linen cultivation also requires lesser resources than organic cotton. It is also the second most productive crop per hectare after hemp, making better use of land.
Linen trousers, shirts, and dresses are already quite popular choices, and you probably already have a few pieces in your closet. However, consider reading the labels and choosing organic versions of the material over the commercially cultivated ones when you can
Brown Living, Saphed, and Terra Luna are good starting points for your search for that perfect organic linen piece!
If you’re a fan of sustainable clothing, you probably already know of the wonders of Bamboo. Another soft, durable fabric, bamboo clothing is claimed to be softer than cotton, odourless and anti-bacterial. This makes it ideal for people with sensitive skin, who may otherwise be prone to skin rashes and infections.
To add to this, bamboo plants can be harvested without actually killing the plant itself. Also, just like hemp, bamboo consumes more CO2 than some other trees, and it is a hardy plant that doesn’t require much care or rain.
Once you’re done wearing it, bamboo fibre also decomposes with ease. This makes bamboo a sustainable clothing alternative.
A word of caution: When you go shopping- always watch out for ‘plasticized’ bamboo where the fibre might be mixed with rayon, and try to avoid it.
We are quite taken in by the Nature Fab store that offers organic bamboo clothing. They also follow a holistic sustainable production method with elements like coconut shell buttons and non-toxic dyes. You can shop for everyday essentials, right from intimate wear to gym wear from their online store.
You can also explore brands like Bamboology, Bamboo Trooper, and Lush Hues for their sustainable bamboo clothing collections.
Source: Bombay Trooper
Sustainable innovations are a gift that keeps on giving and Cork is a great example of that. What was once material for bottle stoppers and furniture boards has very seamlessly also become a part of our closets! From yoga mats to wallets and bags, cork fibre is also a great option for plant-based leather and is a sturdy material for long-term use.
Cork is the bark of an oak tree, shaved off to form cork fabric. This ‘shaving off’ process may sound intrusive but interestingly is a good move for the environment. Oak trees upon forming a new bark can absorb more CO2 than some other trees.
Cork fibre doesn’t produce waste when extracted or processed and is non-polluting. Not only is cork recyclable, but it can also be composted as long as it is not mixed with synthetic materials.
On Earth and Spiritual Warrior also make cork-based yoga mats for a sustainable yoga routine. To know more ways in which you can practice a green yoga routine, read our detailed piece here.
Source: Arture
Another plant-derived fabric that has made waves in the world of ethical fashion is Tencel. Derived by dissolving wood pulp, Tencel requires less energy and water than conventional cotton. Since it is a plant-derived fibre, Tencel is also biodegradable (unless mixed with nylon). It is pure white when produced, so no bleaching is necessary and the fabric takes well to natural dyes too!
The best part about this soft fabric is its versatility. Tencel can be processed to change its texture, to give it either a flowy cotton feel or a silk-like finish, depending on the garment style. It is also 50% more absorbent than cotton and hence is used to make a variety of sustainable clothing ranging from formal dresses to activewear and more.
You can explore sustainable Tencel clothing in India through brands like The Terra Tribe and Ewoke.
Looking for a cruelty-free replacement for leather? Pinatex could be the answer. A food by-product made from scrap pineapples, Pinatex is also known as Pineapple leather and is the new favourite amongst global eco-fashion enthusiasts. Not only is this a natural fabric, but it also helps prevent waste, by reusing scraps that are otherwise burnt.
Since Pinatex is both vegan and natural, it also biodegrades quickly at the end of its life. Created with an intent to replace leather accessories, Beej is one such local brand that scores high on design as well as purpose with its range of cruelty-free Pinatex accessories.
Source: Studio Beej
While silk is a natural and biodegradable fabric, there are ethical issues with the process of making silk, called sericulture, as it is energy and water intensive and involves the killing of silkworms by boiling during production. Peace Silk is the cruelty-free and vegan alternative to commercial silk.
Produced without causing any harm to silkworms, the cruelty-free process of Ahimsa Silk is verified and approved by the World Fair Trade Organization Guarantee system. The silkworms are bred under natural conditions, and no insecticides are used either.
Arras is an inclusive brand rooted in India, which offers a collection of clothing items handmade in peace silk and organic cotton by artisans Do look them up – they have a range of clothing and accessories such as scarves, sarees, blouses, skirts, and more.
For the lifelong loyal fans of cotton, giving up on this much loved ‘comfort fabric’ altogether is not an option, and we get that! But consider giving the sustainable versions of this fabric a try too. Read on.
Produced without causing any harm to silkworms, the cruelty-free process of Ahimsa Silk is verified and approved by the World Fair Trade Organization Guarantee system.
Source: Arras
Recycled cotton is made from either industrial or post-consumer waste. This means your clothing items could be made from industry fabric scrap or other recycled cotton garments. Recycled cotton helps extend the life cycle of this material and ensures that it is reused for longer periods.
Often, finding certifications for recycled cotton can be difficult because it is hard to know the source of raw materials. However, if you want to know which certifications to look out for when shopping for sustainable clothing, read our detailed list here.
Chindi is a noteworthy local brand that uses recycled cotton fabric scraps to make accessories. Chindi, as the name goes, means waste. They proudly and often use the phrase ‘Made from nothing’ in their product descriptions as no new fabric is used in the making of these items. You can get these items from their online store.
Doodlage is another brand that upcycles factory waste into limited-edition collections. While their whole collection may not be made using recycled cotton, you will find options that use recycled cotton as the raw material.
Similarly, organic cotton is also an eco-friendly alternative that has a much less impact on resources as compared to conventional cotton. No Nasties is a planet-positive clothing brand popular for its organic cotton clothing. They claim to have saved over 29,969,111 litres of water so far by using organic cotton over other unsustainable fabrics. They are the pioneers of vegan clothing in our country and are a go-to choice for everyday cotton essentials.
While synthetic fabrics are harmful to the environment as they are made from plastic by-products and are non-biodegradable, we can’t wish them away entirely. But one way to manage them is to extend their lifecycle by recycling them and making them more sustainable. Here are some options to explore:
Econyl is simply recycled nylon. So what makes it eco-friendly? It uses synthetic waste from ocean plastic, abandoned fishing nets, and waste fabric to form new nylon fabric. It feels the same as nylon but doesn’t require much water. This fabric has opened up new possibilities for eco-friendly swimwear, sarees, and more.
Alia Bhatt recently made heads turn by wearing a recycled nylon saree by Akshat Bansal. Incidentally, Akshat also owns a slow fashion brand called Bloni. Similarly, Katrina Kaif also championed sustainable swimwear by sporting an Econyl bikini on her recent Maldives holiday! Many celebrities today endorse sustainable fashion. Read more here for a dose of inspiration!
Polyester is another fast-fashion staple that is fast slowly losing its popularity with conscious consumers due to its contribution to the plastic crisis. This is where recycled polyester comes in as it attempts to make sustainable use of an otherwise unsustainable material.
Recycled polyester helps prolong the life of PET, and can be used to make activewear or even a fluffy fleece. International brands like Patagonia and Reformation have been using them for years. Closer to home, UNIREC is an Indian brand that makes daily wear & even formal wear such as blazers or jackets using recycled PET bottles. Neeman’s is another popular brand, known for its recycled PET shoes!
Source: Neeman’s
Experiment Away!
The world of sustainable fabrics is witnessing exciting innovations. Besides the ones mentioned above, there are several other materials worth exploring as and when you need to shop for new clothing, accessories, or home linen. From upcycled denim to apple leather or the good ol’ jute, there is much to choose from!
Sustainability in fabrics is a combination of several factors, such as raw materials used, sourcing, supply chain transparency, material processing, and its after-life, that is, how it can be disposed of. It is useful to read the labels on the garments and research brands to get a holistic view of their philosophy and practices. The golden rule, however, remains the same – the most sustainable clothing is what you already have in your closet!
