The environmental cost of the fashion industry is now well documented. With the world addicted to the linear economy of buying and discarding wearable used clothes, it is no surprise that every year 85 percent of our clothing is dumped in a landfill or incarcerated, releasing toxic gases. While sustainable fashion offers a great alternative to fast fashion, it comes with its own perils. The market for sustainable fashion has evolved to such an extent that even fast-fashion labels desire a slice of the pie. Fast fashion brands such as H&M, Zara, Forever 21, and several other global retailers say they’re producing sustainable clothing, but this is a dubious claim because the business model of fast fashion is, by definition, against the principles of sustainability. So, why are fast-fashion labels chasing the notion of sustainability? Well, with consumers leaning towards conscious choices, this was inevitable. According to a McKinsey report, 67 percent of European consumers alone consider environmental effects before shopping, and about 60 percent are comfortable reusing and recycling their possessions. A recent Credit Suisse Research Institute report says that Gen Z and Millennial consumers in emerging economies like India and China are more likely to buy sustainable products than their counterparts in developed countries. That explains the chase.
In an episode of Patriot Act with Hasan Minhaj, he dissects the toxicity of fast fashion, stating real-time examples and the importance of reading the labels. That several brands claim to be conscious, eco-friendly, sustainable, without offering transparency or slowing down their production. H&M has indeed pledged to bring down its greenhouse gas emissions and use only 100 per cent sustainable and recycled fabric by 2030, but how real is the transformation? Can fast-produced collections or digitally printing designs of traditional artisans, as H&M recently did with Sanganeri prints for a collaboration with an Indian design house, be considered sustainable?
Many fast-fashion brands often resort to greenwashing, intending to convince their consumers that they’re responsible businesses that are conscious about the environment when they aren’t all that they claim. The bewildering amount of information, definitions, and misconceptions about what exactly is a sustainable brand further complicate the issue for consumers.
To know more about fast fashion, read: 10 Things You Probably Didn’t Know about Fashion.
Source: Patriot Act by Hassan Minhaj
Sustainable fashion is a large umbrella that covers various aspects of fashion, from the brand values and mission, sourcing and production, enhancing socio-economic conditions across the supply chain to logistics and transportation. Every brand defines sustainability differently and it can get messy. Given the number of sustainable brands we come across online these days, it falls upon the consumers to read through the fine print and vet the brand’s sustainability credentials. And if you’re serious about being of conscious of your choices, it is a good idea to understand the ethics and the philosophy of a brand.
Given the number of sustainable brands we come across online these days, it falls upon the consumers to read through the fine print and vet the brand’s sustainability credentials.
In loose terms, sustainable fashion is defined as clothing or wearables that are produced and transported in eco-friendly ways. Of course, there’s more and before we dwell on them, these questions can form a good starting point:
- Where is the raw material sourced from?
- What is the production style?
- What are the working conditions of the employees?
- If they work with artisans, what is the payment policy like?
- What’s the brand mission?
While these are the basics you can begin with, here are some other pointers that may help you spot a sustainable brand amidst the fast-growing clutter.
What Makes a Brand Sustainable?
Source: Fashion Revolution
“Call it eco-fashion if you like, I think it’s just common sense.” – Livia Firth
Read the website carefully: It’s overwhelming to figure out what makes a brand truly sustainable, but sustainable brands are usually transparent. If you open their website, it’s easy to spot their practices — from what sort of fabric they use to how they are making a difference. For instance, if you check out Bare Necessities, their website lists out how they source, craft, and intend to build for the future. They also publish an Impact Report to show how much plastic they’ve kept out of landfills. Information such as this is significant. Similarly, another good way to know more is through their social media outlets to check their campaigns.
Check the source: It’s not as straightforward as it looks on the surface. If a brand crafts its products using organic, eco-friendly, or certified material, it’s not enough. While it’s good if a brand is offering eco-friendly and conscious products, it’s better if it goes beyond that and sources locally. For instance, if a brand is importing raw material to craft its products, what does it say about its carbon footprint? Some brands source material such as cocoa or shea butter from different countries instead of looking for local produce or alternatives. For that purpose, see their sourcing practices before you shop.
Understand its production style: Often a product’s production style speaks volumes. A good rule of thumb is to check if they’re upcycling raw materials or trash to craft their garments. Also, sustainable brands generally slow-produce their items or prefer a made-to-order style, where they craft a piece only after an order is placed. Often, it can take anywhere between 15-40 days to ship them, as they’re handcrafted by artisans in a hygienic workshop. Not limited to just production, these slow fashion brands also ensure their artisans and tailors are paid fair wages and work for 7-8 hours in a day.
To know more about slow fashion, check out our piece here.
Wondering what else makes a production style sustainable? A circular school of thought, where brands also consider how their pieces are used after user consumption. Using recyclable and long-lasting material is the key, but some brands also go above and beyond by gathering garments or accessories from their users to recycle or upcycle them. Brands such as Place The Dot, Bodice, and Vanaras don’t only produce in slow batches, they also come up with innovative solutions concerning packaging and production techniques indicating their commitment to do the right thing.
Global outdoor clothing brand, Patagonia, prioritises sustainability and transparency at the core of its operations. Offering 1% of its sales towards preservation and restoration of the natural environment, this brand encourages a truly circular fashion — in fact, you’ll even spot a ‘Browse Used’ section on their website. Patagonia also offers Patagonia Provisions, which ethically sources groceries, snacks, and all kinds of kitchen goods. Founded by environmentalist, Yvon Chouinard — Patagonia exemplifies how a brand can be sustainable throughout the chain, from thought and vision to operations.
To understand more about circular fashion or economy, read our piece here.
Once you discover which sustainable brands align with your ethics and philosophy, you can support them as consumers. That said, this maxim by the fashion designer Vivienne Westwood – “Buy less. Choose well. Make it last” – remains a good rule to follow. Making wise choices and making them count is the new chic!
